One Good Bottle: The Pinot Project

If I had to draw up my list of wine buying rules, these would be at the top:

1. Avoid any Pinot Noir under $25.

2. Avoid California Pinot Noir, unless someone I like and trust has recommended it — and is paying.

3. Avoid drinking anything with the word “Project” in the name.

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And yet. One of the nicest bottles I’ve had this month was the inauspiciously named “The Pinot Project,” a wine made from Pinot grapes bought in across the state of California. It’s a well-made, well-balanced wine (no syrupy stuff here, although don’t expect Burgundian complexity) that would go with more or less anything you’d want to eat alongside a bottle of red wine. For $14 no less! The price-quality ratio goes down very easy — particularly if you overlook any long-held assumptions about cheap California Pinot.

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