Until last night. It was a warm and humid, Paul was firing up the grill, and rosé seemed like the perfect choice. It was just what I was in the mood for, something clean, crisp, fruity, and not too complicated. I opened the bottle, poured out a heathy dose of the salmony-pink wine, and stuck my nose in the glass. What I smelled was anything but clean and crisp. There was a little vanilla, a hint of brown sugar, something vegetal, and, if I really searched for it, a layer of ripe red fruit underneath. What, exactly, was going on here?

In a word: oak. Turns out this wine is barrel-fermented and aged for five months in French oak. This adds some heft and richness to the wine, not characteristics normally associated with rosé. It’s a pretty unusual approach, although not entirely unheard of. (López de Heredia, an ultra-traditional producer in Rioja, ages its Viña Tondonia rosado in barrels for four and a half years, for example.)

Located in Southold, on the North Fork of Long Island, Croteaux Vineyards specializes in rosés, offering a number of still and sparkling variations on the theme of pink. In yet another unusual move, they name several of their wines after the variety of clone they’re made from–hence “Merlot 3.” (Clones are basically different “types” of the same grape. Producers choose what kind of clone, or clones, to use depending on a number of factors, including growing conditions and the characteristics they’re looking for in the wine.)

In my heart of hearts, I prefer the crisp, dry and fruity style to this oak-inflected one, but there’s lots to admire here. The toasty notes would make it a happy partner for smoked chicken or pork chops, and $18 is a decent price for a wine with this much personality. I’d be curious to see what happens to this wine with a little age on it. Rosés are usually meant to be drunk young, but the oak treatment here could provide some staying power. Mostly, I like this wine for what it represents: namely, that rosés aren’t monolithic, and there’s tremendous versatility and variety in this category.

I wanted to love this wine. I really did. The color is beautiful — what my mother would call “shocking pink.” The nose of rose petals, raspberries, watermelon, and cherry candy is surprisingly intense and complex for a wine at this price. But on the palate it was out of balance. The alcohol — listed at 13% but it felt much higher — was overwhelming, and there wasn’t enough acidity to balance out the wine’s unmistakable sweetness. It wasn’t cloying, exactly, but it didn’t provide the kind of refreshment that’s a hallmark of good rosé.

Kind of a bummer, but I’m trying to look on the bright side: perhaps all this sub-par stuff will make the rosés we taste in Bandol (8 days and counting!) even better. Stay tuned.

I’ve visited a bunch of wine regions (Alsace, Bordeaux, Loire, Sonoma, Napa, and, of course, Long Island) but I’ve never had the opportunity to check out a winery during harvest. I’m not sure what to expect, beyond lots of frenetic activity and harried-looking winemakers. (I’m also having visions of being stuck behind poky, grape-laden trucks on dusty, narrow country roads, but as my husband does the driving, I’m going to let him stress about that.) I’ve already emailed a few of the vineyards I’d like to visit — more on those in an upcoming post — asking if I need to make an appointment in advance as it will be such a busy time of year.  Many wineries in France, which aren’t as tourist-friendly as those in the US, require you to make a reservation, and I think it’s always a good idea to call ahead if you’re visiting a winery — you can ask about special events and find out what time of day is least crowded. (Word to the wise: wherever you are, do everything you can to avoid visiting a vineyard on a summer Saturday afternoon. )

I’ve already received some kind responses, including from one courtly winemaker (seriously — his dad is a Count) who thanked me for my “délicatesse.” Say what you want about the French, they certainly have a way with words…and wine, of course. Stay tuned for more on my vineyard trip planning, including tips to help you get more out of your own wine travels.