White Wine for People (OK, Men) Who Don’t Like White Wine
Of all the stereotypically male behaviors that women are supposed to object to (not asking for directions, improper toilet seat etiquette, and so on)there’s only one that truly irks me: their indifference to white wine. When’s the last time you saw a guy drinking white wine? Or even admitting to liking one? Unless they’re French, in the wine industry (or both), the men I know don’t really drink white wine. They often say they don’t like the lightness, the sweetness, or the tropical fruit character found in a lot of whites.
That’s too bad. They’re missing out on a lot of great wine. Plus, it makes them less-than-ideal dining partners for those of us who love whites as much as we love reds. But all is not lost. I’ve spent 12 years convincing my husband that there are worthy whites out there and, in the process, have discovered a few categories of wines that will please even the most avowed red chauvinist:
1. White Rhône wines. I know, I’m on a bit of a Rhône kick these days (OK, always) but there’s good reason. These wines, made from varieties like Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, are full-bodied, robust, and go well with rich dishes like lobster. If you’re on a lobster roll budget, go with a white Côtes-du-Rhône. If you’re feeling more lobster thermidor, try a Condrieu.
2. Madeira. The wine of our Founding Fathers: intense, nutty, historic, and with searing acidity that’ll put hair on the chest of even the manliest of men. (OK, so Madeira is more brown than white.)
3. Chablis. These Chardonnay-based wines from northern Burgundy are taut, dry and austere — Gran Torion-era Clint Eastwood in a bottle. They’re great with shellfish and seafood.
4. Pinot Gris. Versions from Oregon or Alsace, in eastern France, pack a lot of punch. These are full-bodied, high-alcohol wines with a unique smoky, almost roasted quality that goes well with poultry cooked outdoors: think grilled chicken or fried turkey.
5. Champagne. I’ve found that even the most passionate white wine haters will make an exception for Champagne. And if they do resist, offer them a Blanc de Noirs, as it’s made solely from red grapes, Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier. And if that doesn’t convince him, well, it’s probably a lost cause.
Funny stuff. I’m in the business (I was the exec editor of Wine News magazine for about eight years before starting my own import and distribution company in NYC last year) so I may not be the demo you were after. I think the white prejudice runs to the biz side, too. People I dealt with (other writers, producers, PR people, etc.) were always surprised when I would invariably state that I drink probably 90% white.
Non-biz people, in truth, were always more surprised, so I think your research is correct in that regard.
Once the smirks would disappear, I would explain that whites, by their very nature, are more subtle than reds. Of course, some whites just suck (as do some of any type of wines), but all things being equal, there’s simply more nuance to a white. I don’t mean some jug wine, but I also don’t mean just white Burgundy or Alsace whites. A well-made white, whether it sells for $10 or $100 will show layers of aromas and flavors in a way that reds can’t. This is probably because of the more obvious tannins in reds, the heavier use of oak and higher, on average, alcohol levels.
For me, any wine that shows where it’s from is a good wine, and reds do that as much as whites (or maybe not quite; that’s a debate for another day). And while there are certainly some high-octane whites out there, I just think that if a wine drinker wants to really sit back and appreciate more than obvious fruit, white is the way to go.
One quibble: Madeira is brown, not white!
Todd
Thanks for the very thoughtful response–much more thoughtful than my original post, by far! Agree re: aromatics and nuance. Speaking very generally, yes, whites are less likely to have a heavy overlay of oak obscuring the character of the fruit. The (on average) lower alcohol levels mean that whites are often more refreshing than reds — wine is, after all, a beverage, and should provide refreshment, as well as pleasure and food for thought. And some white varieties have such distinctive personalities (I’m looking at you, Gewurztraminer), that any winemaker worth his/her salt will understand that the best route to success is to let that personality (and the sense of place) shine through.
Oops on the Madeira — good call! Shall correct accordingly…cheers!
I just want to throw a couple white wines worth trying with the anti-white-wine crowd into the ring. all of these wines can be consumed when young, but I think they only show their best when they have a decade or more under their corks. White riojas, and particularly some of the well-priced older specimens from Lopez de Heredia, have a body and complexity that demand attention. Another wine idea is an Alsatian field blend–I like the Deiss line-up a great deal–but in the interest of full disclosure I must note that some of these cross the color line and do the unspeakable (gasp!) by blending pinot noir with pinot gris or other white varietals. Another great wine that does not get the attention it deserves is white Bordeaux, and particularly the classic semillon, sauvignon blanc, muscadelle blend.
I brought home a Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Reserva home a year or so ago and even my husband, white skeptic that he is, really enjoyed it. These are seriously thought-provoking wines. I too love white Bordeaux, although I hesitate to recommend them to some folks that don’t love whites. A lot of them find Sauvignon Blanc tough to take, even in a blend, and even in the more restrained Bordeaux context. Too bad, they’re missing out — these are tremendously versatile, food-friendly wines, and many are decent values as well.